Pena Palace
Grounds-only ticket. Walk the full rampart loop for the best views — most people cluster at the front terrace and miss the quiet western side with Atlantic panoramas. We discovered this by accident when we took a wrong turn past the café and ended up with an unobstructed view of the ocean. The tile-covered arches and Triton gate are the architectural highlights.
The park below the palace has trails through ancient forest — we allocated 30 extra minutes here and found a hidden fountain surrounded by fern trees with zero other visitors.